Posted by Ronald Mastrodonato on August 18th, 2008 6:28 PMPost a Comment (0)

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1031 exchange scams can devastate investors
August 17th, 2008 7:01 PM
1031 exchange scams can devastate investors
Do you know who's holding your funds?

August 13, 2008

By Ilyce Glink
Inman News

A recent report in the Wall Street Journal highlighted yet another 1031 exchange company that had stolen investors' funds and used them to fund an expensive lifestyle.

Thousands of real estate investors have used 1031 exchanges to defer capital gains and other taxes due when buying replacement investment property. When the rules are properly followed, a 1031 exchange -- also referred to as a Starker trust or Starker exchange -- allows a real estate investor to buy and sell real estate without having to pay any federal income taxes on the sale of the property. The payment of any taxes is deferred until the owner of the property dies or sells the property and does not use a 1031 exchange.

1031 exchanges are generally used for real estate transactions but can also be used for investments in other types of properties, including airplanes, cars, trading cards and even musical instruments. But these investments have to be true investments, and the sale of one must be followed by the purchase of another like-kind investment: a real estate asset for another real estate asset, or an airplane for an airplane.

According to Scott Nathanson, senior vice president of Nationwide Exchange Services, a company that acts as a qualified intermediary, the problem is that 1031 exchange companies are unregulated, and security isn't high on their list of priorities.

"Making sure that (investors') 1031 funds are secure is expensive and time-consuming," Nathanson says. "So a lot of 1031 exchange companies don't do it."

In the past few months, Nathanson says, the faltering economy and slowing real estate market have meant trouble for many 1031 exchange companies that aren't quite on the up and up.

In Chicago, two attorneys who operated small 1031 exchange intermediary companies in addition to their legal practices were found to have skimmed $1 million, in one case, of investors' funds. In one of the cases, the attorney skimmed a little bit from each of the investors' funds over many years, Nathanson explained.

But the sheer magnitude of some of the cases, which Nathanson and investigators refer to as Ponzi schemes, is startling.

In Denver, the owner of the Southwest Exchange Inc. acquired a number of small 1031 exchange companies, combined them together and then took $100 million of $150 million in funds to invest in some European breast implantation technology.

"As long as there is new money coming in that you can use to pay out the 1031 exchange funds that have to go out, you're OK," Nathanson explains. "But as soon as the market slowed, he needed to get those funds back into the 1031 exchange company, but apparently couldn't."

On the East Coast, the owner of another 1031 exchange company used the company as his private piggy bank, pulling another $100 million out of it for personal use.

Nathanson says that real estate investors looking to do a 1031 exchange should ask companies a few basic questions to help establish where their funds will be held and how safe they are.

First, ask where the funds will be held and how they will be held. Nationwide Exchange Services, which Nathanson believes is the only 1031 exchange company that is Sarbanes-Oxley Section 404 compliant, holds funds only in FDIC banks. Not only that, the funds are held in a special escrow trust account so if a bank goes under, the funds are safe even if there is more than $100,000 in the account.

Nathanson says it takes an extra day to get the funds out of the special trust account, "but it's amazing how patient people have become in the wake of the Indymac Bank failure."

Next, ask if the 1031 exchange company has a fidelity bond and if you can get a copy of it. Nathanson says his company has a $55 million fidelity bond to protect customers.

"In a bad economy, where 1031 exchange companies cut corners is with the bonds, which can be expensive," he adds.

Finally, ask if the 1031 exchange company carries errors and omissions insurance on each exchange. The answer you're looking for is yes, because the E&O policy covers mistakes such as funds being erroneously wired to the wrong location.

If you have 1031 exchange funds held with a company that doesn't follow best security practices, the end result can be devastating.

"The IRS is unforgiving on this issue because they say you have the right to choose any 1031 exchange company you want. If you choose a company that turns out to be a bunch of crooks, the IRS says it's your problem. You still owe the taxes," even if you can't buy a replacement property and you have lost your money, Nathanson explains.

How much could you owe? If you failed to complete the 1031 exchange for any reason, you'd owe capital gains tax on your profit, any state taxes that would have been due and the recapture on any depreciation you took.

In short, you could be completely wiped out, especially if you have been doing 1031 exchanges over and over again, deferring hundreds of thousands of dollars in profits.

"It's most people's life savings, and they never ask these important questions about security. What we are often asked is why we're going to keep the funds in a trust account that only earns 2 percent," Nathanson says. "They keep asking if there isn't a place where we could earn a little more."

To get even more valuable advice from Ilyce, visit her Personal Finance and Real Estate Center.


Posted by Ronald Mastrodonato on August 17th, 2008 7:01 PMPost a Comment (0)

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Composite decking not infallible
August 16th, 2008 5:48 PM
Composite decking not infallible
Despite benefits over natural wood, warping and rotting still possible

August 15, 2008

By Paul Bianchina
Inman News

Check over the results of virtually any home improvement survey, and you will see that adding a deck consistently ranks at or near the top of the list in terms of both desirability and payback on investment. If a deck is high on your wish list, one of the primary decisions you are no doubt struggling with is what type of decking material to use -- natural wood, or one of the new plastic composite materials that have been getting so much attention lately.

The relative advantages and disadvantages of natural wood are pretty well known. On the plus side, there is the pure, natural beauty of wood, something the composites have been striving with mixed results to emulate. In the eyes of many homeowners and builders alike, nothing can ever replace the subtle grain variations and smooth glow of a piece of redwood or cedar, or one of the hardwoods such as teak or Ipe.

Then there are the obvious drawbacks to wood, which include splintering, cracking, insect and water damage, and the need for regular maintenance every one to two years. It's a tough balancing act between looks and upkeep.

So, enter the composite decks, one of the faster-growing segments of the building material industry. They have been heavily marketed, with the consistent underlying theme being that composites offer much of the beauty of wood without the hassles. True or not?

Actually, most of the main selling points of composite decking seem to be true, if occasionally a little overoptimistic. Composite decking is typically a very stable material, without the cracking and splintering associated with natural wood. You're not going to pick up a splinter walking across one of these decks, and they are also a pretty undesirable meal for an insect.

Low-dimensional shrinkage -- the tendency for a 6-inch-wide board to stay 6 six inches wide after exposure to the elements -- is also an advantage to composite decking. However, to say unequivocally that these materials will not warp would be a bit of an overstatement. There is still that possibility, and it's imperative that the manufacturer's rated spans not be exceeded, and that there is sufficient support and an adequate number of fasteners used.

While the exact composition of composite decking materials varies, they are in large part made from recycled materials, another definite advantage. Some of the decking materials can also be recycled themselves should the time come to remove the deck, but that's something you should clarify when you're shopping and comparing brands.

While virtually all of the composite decking materials contain some form and percentage of plastic or vinyl, many also contain a certain amount of wood fiber. Even though the wood fiber is blended with the liquid plastic during the manufacturing process, it is not completely impervious to rotting. The percentage of wood fiber in the makeup of the material is another consideration when shopping, and it's generally considered best to look for a product with less than 50 percent wood fiber in it.

While composite decking may not have succeeded completely in its quest to duplicate the beauty of natural wood, it's still a very attractive material in its own right. Composite decking now comes in a wide variety of colors and texture patterns, and the ability for a deck designer to select a color that blends with the deck's environment, or even to combine colors for dramatic effect, is one of the material's chief advantages. Curves are also typically easier to achieve with composite materials than with natural wood, although tight curves and intricate designs can still present some challenges to the deck builder.

That brings us to maintenance, one of the primary selling features of composite decking. Compared to natural wood, composites really do win this battle hands down, with none of the regular applications of stains and sealers associated with wood. They are not completely maintenance-free, however, and it's important that you follow the manufacturer's instructions for regular cleaning in order to maintain the best appearance. Certain substances can stain composites, such as grease from the barbecue, so it's also important that spills be cleaned up quickly and thoroughly.

Finally, there is the question of durability over time. Composites have simply not been around long enough to be able to say with complete certainty that they will or won't perform well after 10 or 15 years in the backyard. And don't be suckered in by an attractive warranty. As with virtually all building materials, the typical warranty has so much legalese in the fine print and so many exclusions for everything from improper storage at the dealer's yard to installation methods that don't strictly adhere to the manufacturer's sometimes unreasonable standards as to be pretty much useless.

If you're thinking about a composite, your best bet is to simply shop around, ask questions and do your homework. Then ask the dealer or decking contractor for the names of several people who've had similar materials in place for three years or longer, and go check a couple of them out to see for yourself how they're holding up, and what the owner's experiences with them have been.


Posted by Ronald Mastrodonato on August 16th, 2008 5:48 PMPost a Comment (0)

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Better ROI: real estate or stocks?
August 15th, 2008 1:54 PM
Better ROI: real estate or stocks?
Landlording is hard work, but tax benefits may tip scale

August 15, 2008

By Ilyce Glink
Co-written by Samuel J. Tamkin
Inman News

Q: I have decided that if I am to invest in real estate, it will be single-family ranch-style houses with the goal of breaking even on a monthly basis. I'll either hold the property long term (if it looks like I'll make money by increasing the rent over time) or sell after I've fixed it up.

We have ample investments that will give us retirement any time we want, now or even 10 years from now. But my intention with these real estate investments is to make our later years more "flush" as well as provide something for our heirs.

My question is this: How do I determine whether or not investing in single-family homes is even necessary given our financial position? I've run a "basic" analysis of what a $25,000 investment in an account will be in 20 years at 7 percent vs. buying a $90,000 ranch house with 20 percent down, and $7,000 in other costs up front. I've projected just 2 percent average annual appreciation in home value.

The difference between putting the $25,000 in cash into an investment account and buying homes is not huge, but the effort required with real estate is much larger. I want to be sure that the effort I put toward this venture is rewarded and this whole project is not just something to keep me busy.

I'd really hate it if I found out I barely made more than if I'd stuck my money in a mutual fund.

A: This is a great question, and one that every real estate investor should take the time to ponder. But, there's no short answer.

You've done your homework and that's a good thing. But one issue you need to account for in real estate is the possibility that the value of your asset will not only not appreciate but might depreciate. The second item that you need to factor in is whether you have accounted for other expenses in leasing the property and your inability to lease the home from time to time.

These factors may make your decision easier. If you factor in these additional expenses, you may find that your analysis would move you towards not buying real estate.

While residential real property can be a good investment, for most people it's a home. That home is a place to live in and a way to live in a particular neighborhood and community. For many years, homes appreciated rapidly but were never investments. Now that the residential bubble has burst, we won't know whether single-family homes will appreciate as they did in the past or if they will stay at roughly the same value for a number of years before rising again.

For now, in many places, single-family homes are declining in value. According to several indices, homes in many metropolitan areas have fallen anywhere from 10 to 28 percent in value over the past 18 months.

Another point to consider: the long-term costs of maintaining your properties. The longer you own a home, the more costly it is to own it. Roofs, boilers and air-conditioners need replacing over the years. Homes need exterior work and maintenance. All of those costs need to be factored into your decision. If you've already put aside a maintenance and upkeep budget, your decision will be more informed.

All wannabe landlords have to decide if they're up to the task of dealing with tenants. Some people just hate the idea that a tenant can call at any time of the day or night (even if the call never comes). If you're averse to handling tenant calls about problems with your house and decide to hire a manager to take care of these issues, you'll erode your stream of income.

Finally, there will be costs involved when it comes time to sell your property. You can expect to pay anywhere from 4 to 6 percent commission, plus other closing costs, such as title, taxes and other fees.

Being a landlord is a lifestyle, not just an investment. Unfortunately, it's difficult to quantify the cost of your time and effort in retirement. But if you can get your properties to a cash-flow-positive level within the first few years of owning them, you'll likely build a stable source of income for your retirement, and your heirs.

Even if your rate of return is equal to putting your cash into a mutual fund, you might find the tax benefits of owning investment property will tip the scale toward real estate rather than the stock market for a portion of your portfolio.

To get even more valuable advice from Ilyce, visit her Personal Finance and Real Estate Center.


Posted by Ronald Mastrodonato on August 15th, 2008 1:54 PMPost a Comment (0)

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When home won't sell, consider rent-to-own
August 14th, 2008 6:00 PM
When home won't sell, consider rent-to-own
Buyer should have proper insurance, finances to justify arrangement

August 14, 2008

By Ilyce Glink
Inman News

Q: I am trying to sell my other house in Atlanta. It is paid off, so I have no mortgage hanging over my head. However, I do have a mortgage on my new property. When I sell my former residence, I'll pay off the new mortgage.

I have had interest in the property for the past six months, but my agent informed me the other day that a buyer is floating the idea of a lease/purchase of the house. What is your opinion/advice on a lease/purchase of a home? Is this something I should consider?

A: In this type of market, there are some reasons why you might consider doing a lease/purchase, also known as a lease with an option to buy.

Here's how it works: Typically you and the buyer will agree on a purchase price and a monthly rental fee for the lease. The buyer will pay a nonrefundable option fee to purchase the property at the agreed-upon amount. You may agree to credit a portion of the rent and the nonrefundable option fee toward an eventual down payment (buyers who don't have a down payment often do a lease/purchase).

The financial terms are negotiable and you need to make sure that you know more about the person that will be living in your home than if you were just selling them the home.

When you typically sell a home, the sale is completed within two months of signing the contract. But when you lease the home, your arrangement could last a year or longer. You might want to know more about the buyer's credit history, obtain references, or get to know the buyer better before signing a lease/purchase.

For example, you wouldn't want to rent the home out to someone who will fail to take care of it. You'll want to be sure to have enough of a security deposit so that the buyer has an incentive to keep the home in good shape. You'll want to make sure the buyer has insurance for his belongings and liability insurance in case there is an accident at the home. And you'll want to make sure the buyer has enough income to pay the monthly lease payments until he decides to buy the home or until the end of the lease term.

What you don't want is a tenant who ends up keeping your home off the market, never buys the home, and leaves the home in worse shape than it was in when you gave him the keys.

At the end of the lease term, typically a year, the buyer will tell you whether he is ready to pick up the option and purchase the house or if he prefers to pay another nonrefundable option fee and continue to rent. The buyer might also tell you that he doesn't like the property or can't afford to buy it and is walking away from his nonrefundable option fee and won't continue to rent the home.

If the person interested in your home meets your criteria, it may be a good deal for you to do a lease/purchase, particularly if you are having trouble keeping up with the financial cost of owning two homes and because you'll finally be bringing some cash in for the property.

While there will be wear and tear with any tenant, it isn't a good idea to leave a property vacant for any period of time. Also, because the tenant may actually be interested in purchasing the property someday, he may take better care of the property than a regular tenant would.

Taxwise, I'd remind you that you'll need to have lived in that house as your primary residence for two of the past five years in order to keep up to $250,000 in profits (up to $500,000 if you're married) tax free.

If you decide to go ahead, please treat the lease/purchase as a purchase first, lease second. You should sign a purchase/sale agreement and then have an attorney draw up a lease that discusses the rent credit you are offering, the purchase price, the nonrefundable option fee (should you choose to have one) and other details.

And, please, you should consider using a real estate attorney to assist you in the documentation for the lease/purchase of the home.

To get even more valuable advice from Ilyce, visit her Personal Finance and Real Estate Center.


Posted by Ronald Mastrodonato on August 14th, 2008 6:00 PMPost a Comment (0)

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Failed drywall tape common on new homes
August 13th, 2008 12:55 PM

Move My Realty - Real Estate News

Afraid of taxes when selling inherited home?
August 27th, 2008 6:24 PM
Afraid of taxes when selling inherited home?
Don't worry, unless you wait too long

August 21, 2008

By Ilyce Glink
Inman News

Q: My father recently passed, and my siblings and I sold his house and split the profits according to his will.

What would be the best way to keep from paying taxes on this gain? It's approximately $14,000. If I put it in a Roth IRA or regular IRA would that shield me from the tax burden? Please give me some advice on what to do with this money so it's not so devastating when tax time comes.

A: Here's some good news: It's likely that you don't owe any taxes on this inheritance. When you inherit property, you inherit the property at its value at the time the person died. Generally, if you sell it within a year of the owner's death, the IRS views the property's value on the day of death as the same as the day it sells. Because real estate can be hard to value, the amount received at the sale of the property if it was close to the person's date of death would be viewed as the value of the property at the time of the death.

Since the sales price should be considered the market value on the date of death, you shouldn't owe any taxes on the sale.

To recap, if your father purchased his home for $50,000 some 10 years ago and recently died and you and your siblings sold the home for $200,000, you and your siblings would not have to pay any taxes on the sale of the home.

But, let's say that you kept the property for five years after his death, and then you sold it for $100,000 more than the value on the date of death. In this case, you'd owe long-term capital gains taxes plus state taxes on the sale. Typically, you'd owe 15 percent in capital gains taxes plus state tax, plus there could be other taxes owed on the sale if the property was used as an investment property.

Finally, if there is tax to be paid when you sell real estate, you won't be able to avoid paying the taxes on the sale of the real estate by putting the proceeds from the sale into an IRA or other retirement account.

For more details, please consult with your accountant or tax preparer.

Q: We bought an investment property in California and used a 1031 exchange company. Today we found out that the company is closed for business. We would like to know what we should do now.

A: I'm so sorry. There have been a number of cases recently reported where the owners of 1031 exchange companies have either used investors' funds for personal use or absconded with the money or invested it poorly and lost it.

You should contact the California Department of Real Estate and the California Attorney General's office to see what they are doing with this company and to let them know you are an injured party.

To avoid the possible loss of all of your funds, you should contact an attorney in California immediately. That attorney may advise you to sue the 1031 company as soon as possible.

The reason you need to move quickly is that under the IRS rules, if you don't complete your exchange within the required timeline, even if the company has not released the funds, you'll owe taxes on your 1031 exchange. To avoid that double-whammy, you need to see what you can do from the California end to protect your funds, if possible.

Your accountant or tax advisor can advise you further.

Good luck. Please let me know what happens.

To get even more valuable advice from Ilyce, visit her Personal Finance and Real Estate Center.

***


Posted by Ronald Mastrodonato on August 27th, 2008 6:24 PMPost a Comment (0)

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Urban planning's future: people, not cars
August 30th, 2008 11:59 AM

Urban planning's future: people, not cars


History suggests gas-powered transport cannot last

August 29, 2008

By Arrol Gellner
Inman News

What's an architect doing writing about cars, anyway?

I always get indignant e-mails asking me this whenever I criticize some aspect of our autocentric society -- whether it's our parking-obsessed city planning, our mania for fruitless road widening and freeway building, or our laughably primitive traffic control systems.

The answer is simple. We inhabit an era -- a very fleeting one, in historical terms -- that's all but predicated on the automobile. Hence, architecture and cars are as inextricably linked for modern builders as architecture and defense were for the castle builders of the Middle Ages. You simply can't design on an urban scale without cars being an integral and often overriding element of what you're planning.

To see how inseparable the automobile is from contemporary design, stroll down most any suburban street, where the most prominent design feature will be a phalanx of garage doors in all shapes and sizes. Or take a look at your typical shopping mall -- an inward-looking huddle of buildings adrift in a vast sea of parking spaces. Talk about the tail wagging the dog.

Municipal zoning codes have institutionalized the fact that cars rule the land, because parking requirements quite often dictate all other aspects of a project. There are exceptions, of course. A few audaciously forward-looking cities have actually made their downtowns less car-friendly in order to encourage other kinds of locomotion, including -- gasp! -- people using their own two feet. Yet for the most part, city planners have meekly and uncritically knuckled under to the assumed primacy of the automobile.

That's a pity, because cars in their present form are no more a permanent fixture of our built environment than were the oxcart, the chariot, or the horse and buggy. We happen to live in the historical apogee of the internal-combustion automobile, but even the smallest degree of historical perspective makes plain that it's merely a temporary visitor -- and an increasingly troublesome one -- on planet Earth.

Now, for those staunch car defenders getting ready to fire off e-mails calling me a deluded idealist, a car hater or a clueless academic -- don't bother. The fact is I've been an incurable gearhead since childhood. I can still happily spend a long evening jabbering about cam grinds and axle ratios with my car-crazy buddies, and I still own a number of Detroit's most venerable old gas guzzlers in honor of a grand old era that's now passed into history. If anything, though, this personal obsession makes it all the more obvious to me that our autocentric society, and the vast traffic and petroleum supply infrastructure that goes along with it, will one day be no more than a curiosity to future historians.

What does that mean for us today? For one thing, it suggests we shouldn't regard our cars -- not to speak of the oil they run on -- as the be-all and end-all of American society. We should also recognize that history has a way of casually demolishing institutions that seem impregnable, and the internal combustion automobile is surely one of these. Something better, simpler and kinder to the earth is no doubt on the way, assuming that we're smart enough to welcome it.

***


Posted by Ronald Mastrodonato on August 30th, 2008 11:59 AMPost a Comment (0)

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Don't let home inspector out of your sight
August 30th, 2008 11:59 AM
Don't let home inspector out of your sight
Before buying, it pays to know property's condition

August 29, 2008

By Paul Bianchina
Inman News

Q: In as much as there are a great number of current issues regarding disclosure to the purchaser of real property, when, if ever, is it going to be the responsibility of the purchaser to investigate particular items of relevance to them? --George D.

A: Great question! In today's day and age of people expecting "someone" to look after them and protect them from anything and everything, and with each succeeding generation seeming to develop more of that attitude than the previous one, it's unlikely that you are going to see the burden of responsibility shifting back onto home buyers anytime soon.

Don't get me wrong. I have always been an advocate of people looking after themselves, especially with a purchase as huge as a home. I am all in favor of disclosure laws, since only the seller knows where the leaks or other problems are (or were), but buyers also need to take the time to inspect and understand the house for themselves. There's a lot more to home than whether or not is has granite countertops!

The current trend is to entrust the responsibility of inspecting a house to a home inspector. That's fine, because a home is a big and complex structure and you can't expect every buyer to have the necessary expertise to do their own inspections. However, I have seen good inspectors that really understand homes and know what does and doesn't constitute a genuine problem that a buyer should be concerned about, and I have also seen bad inspectors that rely on checklists and limited knowledge and handing out a bunch of printed information they downloaded from the Internet, as though an inspection report that's loaded with unimportant paper makes up for one that really delves into the inner workings of the home.

Hiring a home inspector is fine, and I fully encourage it. But remember that if the seller is paying the fee, they're probably going to go for the lowest bidder. So buyers should hire their own inspector as well, and be prepared to put on their coveralls and follow the inspector around -- on the roof, in the attic, under the house -- everywhere their physical abilities will allow them to go. Ask questions. Then when you have the results of both inspections, compare the results closely and ask more questions.

I have noticed that people are more concerned with all the details of the purchase of a $20,000 car than they are with the purchase of a $500,000 home, and then when things go wrong they want to know whom to point the finger at.

So, home buyers everywhere, get involved with your purchase, learn about how it works, understand what's broken and what it's going to take to fix it -- and then sleep a little better at night.

Q: I have never seen anywhere information on cleaning and putting a preservative on a deck that is over water. We have lived in our home on the lake for three years and would like to clean and preserve our deck but can find nothing that states that it can be used where a deck is over the water. With a few really hard rains our lower deck ends up underwater until the water recedes, and I know this can't be good for the wood. Any suggestions? --Penny V.

A: I didn't have a good answer for you, so I contacted the technical people at Wolman Wood Care Products, a company that makes a very good line of deck products. Their recommendation is as follows:

"The best product for this type of application is Wolman Copper Coat, as it is a water-based product so it is safe to apply over a dock, and also it is typically used for dock structures."

I have used Wolman products with great success in the past, so I would consider taking a look at their recommendation. You can get more information about this and other Wolman products on the Web at www.wolman.com.

Q: What is the proper way to clean up stains on Trex decking? --Bob F.

A: Typically, all that's required for normal dirt is to first sweep the deck off, then clean it with hot water, soap, and a stiff nylon scrub brush or stiff push broom. For grease stains, use a household degreaser such as Formula 409, then soap and water.

Incidentally, there's a great cleaning and stain removal chart on the Trex Web site, at www.trex.com.

Remodeling and repair questions? E-mail Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com.


Posted by Ronald Mastrodonato on August 30th, 2008 11:59 AMPost a Comment (0)

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Home inspection nightmare: Attic access denied
August 26th, 2008 8:15 PM
Home inspection nightmare: Attic access denied
If asbestos is later found, are sellers liable for removal costs?

August 26, 2008

By Barry Stone
Inman News

DEAR BARRY: When we bought our home, the sellers prevented our home inspector from inspecting the attic. They simply told him that there was no access, and he merely confirmed this in his inspection report. We later discovered that the access was on the wall of the master closet, behind some clothes. Our concern now is whether we have asbestos insulation in our attic. If so, are the sellers liable for asbestos removal? --Kim

DEAR KIM: The sellers must have known about the access panel in the closet, although they may not have realized it was the entry to the attic. On the other hand, there may have been some attic issues that they wanted to hide. The answers to these questions may never be known. The main focus now is to inspect the attic for possible defects.

Asbestos in the attic is only likely if the home dates back to the early 1970s. At that time, asbestos was used for air duct insulation and for flue pipes. It was not used, however, to insulate attic spaces. Attic insulation typically consists of fiberglass, rock wool, or recycled cellulose.

The one error that was made by your home inspector was to confirm the lack of an access with no further comment. The disclosure in the inspection report should have been something like: "No attic access was found. It is recommended that an access be made to enable completion of this inspection."

DEAR BARRY: I recently made a purchase offer on a house. The seller's disclosure statement listed no defects, but the offer was contingent on a clean home inspection report. So I hired a home inspector and also ordered an appraisal for a total cost of $700. When I read the inspection report, I couldn't believe the number of major issues that needed attention, from standing water under the building to rotted wood on the roof. Because of this, I've decided not to buy the house. Since the seller's disclosure statement listed no defect, is he liable for the money I spent on the inspection and appraisal? --Dan

DEAR DAN: Unless you can prove that the seller concealed known defects in the disclosure statement, he is not responsible to reimburse your costs. The purchase contract was contingent on your acceptance of the home inspection report. Therefore, your only options are to cancel the transaction or renegotiate the contract.

Reliance on seller disclosure statements is usually disappointing. In most cases, disclosure statements are worth less than the squares of toilet tissue they might have been printed on. A home inspection report, if properly prepared by a qualified professional, will always reveal more than a disclosure statement.

In most cases, sellers are simply unaware of defects in their homes, although there are instances where sellers deliberately conceal known defects. The seller in your case may never have looked under the building and may have been totally unaware of the drainage problem. Likewise, he probably never walked on the roof or crawled through the attic, and therefore had no idea that the wood was rotted.

It is unfortunate that you hired an appraiser before you reviewed the home inspection report. The appraisal should have been done after you considered the physical condition of the property. That would have limited your nonrefundable expenses.

To write to Barry Stone, please visit him on the Web at www.housedetective.com.


Posted by Ronald Mastrodonato on August 26th, 2008 8:15 PMPost a Comment (0)

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Must I contract with agent showing open house?
August 25th, 2008 8:29 PM
Must I contract with agent showing open house?
Commission disputes can erupt over who represented whom

August 25, 2008

By Dian Hymer
Inman News

Buyers often find the house they ultimately buy on their own at an open house. Do they have to use the agent that was showing the open house?

Buyers should work with the agent of their choice. However, complications can arise when there is confusion about who is working with a buyer. It helps to understand the rules of the game.

Some buyers enter into a written buyer representation agreement with a real estate agent. These agreements basically say that the buyers will pay the agent a commission when they buy a house through the agent. If the agreement is exclusive, the agent may be owed a commission even if the buyers purchase using a different agent.

For instance, you could find a new listing on the Internet and want to see it right away. You call your agent, with whom you have signed an exclusive agreement to represent you. But she's not available.

Then you call the listing office and make an appointment to see the house with the agent who is handling the in-coming calls. You love it and make an offer right away through the agent that showed you the house. The offer is accepted.

When the seller listed, he agreed to pay his agent a commission, part of which was to be paid to a buyer's agent. So, the agent who sold you the house received a buyer agent commission that was paid for by the seller. However, you might owe a commission to your exclusive agent even though she had nothing to do with the sale.

HOUSE HUNTING TIP: No matter how anxious you are to see a new listing, you should always make it clear to other agents that you are already working with an agent.

Buyers who haven't yet selected an agent to work with often canvas Sunday open houses to get familiar with neighborhoods. They could spend a long time with an agent who is holding a house open. The agent might answer questions and provide disclosure documents. This does not necessarily obligate the buyers to buy the house through that agent.

These buyers could decide to find an agent to represent them when they get serious about buying. They could return to the house at a later date and decide to buy it through the agent they selected to represent them.

The buyers in this situation shouldn't be obligated to buy through the open-house agent unless they signed an exclusive buyer representation agreement with that agent, particularly if they had no future contact with that agent after the open house. If an open-house agent continues to call you after you've selected another agent, you should let the agent know that you have arranged for representation through a different agent.

The rules aren't black and white regarding when a buyer's agent is owed a commission. Normally, if the agent is a Realtor -- a member of the National Association of Realtors, which is a trade association with a code of ethics -- commission disputes are handled through the local association of Realtors. However, not all real estate agents are Realtors.

When Realtors are involved, the clients are often insulated from commission disputes. But, a client could be called as a witness. To avoid being involved in any of these sorts of disputes, be candid with agents you meet about your agent relationship.

THE CLOSING: If you think you might have misled an agent into thinking he or she might be writing an offer for you, have your agent call the other agent as soon as possible to clear up any confusion before a problem arises.

Dian Hymer is a nationally syndicated real estate columnist and author of "House Hunting, The Take-Along Workbook for Home Buyers" and "Starting Out, The Complete Home Buyer's Guide," Chronicle Books.


Posted by Ronald Mastrodonato on August 25th, 2008 8:29 PMPost a Comment (0)

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Neighbor helping neighbor avoid foreclosure?
August 24th, 2008 7:14 PM
Neighbor helping neighbor avoid foreclosure?
Distressed owner takes big risk in quitclaiming rights to home

August 22, 2008

By Ilyce Glink
Co-written by Samuel J. Tamkin
Inman News

Q: My neighbors are on the verge of losing their home because they can't keep up with the payments. They are not behind yet in their payments yet, but it's going to happen.

I would like to buy the house, but need time to clear up some credit issues. Can he "quitclaim deed" the house to us? We would make the mortgage payments so that his credit won't be compromised until we can buy it. Or is there another way to do this?

A: Your neighbor certainly has the right to quitclaim his interest in his home to you and have you pay the payments on the mortgage. But the real question is why he would want to lose control over his house and lose any equity he may have in the home when you have your own credit problems to deal with.

Let's go back to your neighbor's issues. Your neighbor is in financial difficulties and is having problems paying his debts, including what he owes on his home. You want to buy his home but have your own credit problems and can't buy it right now. If your neighbor has equity in his home -- that is to say the value of the home exceeds the amount he owes to his lender -- he would want you to pay him at least that before he would be willing to transfer the keys to his home to you.

Many people sell their homes to strangers when strangers say to the owners that they will keep up the payments on their old mortgage. The buyer would buy the home subject to the old loan on the property.

But if the new buyer stops making the payments to the lender, the only thing that new buyer loses is the home. That new buyer's credit does not get hurt. If the lender found out about the sale, the lender could exercise its rights under just about all mortgages that are in the market to accelerate the debt. That would mean the lender is calling the loan in and would need to be repaid.

Frankly, this is one of the biggest scams going on right now, and savvy homeowners would do well to steer clear of strangers promising to make all of their financial problems go away if they would simply sign over title to their home.

Your neighbor would be taking a huge risk if you failed to make the mortgage payments. If that happened, his credit would be shot, the home would be lost and he might be worse off than if he just let the lender foreclose.

Q: We have an easement on our property and our neighbor is putting in a pool, which will encroach onto the easement. We are planning to sell our home within a year and would not like this to be an issue. Can we get the easement canceled so that there will not be any problems with the easement for future homeowners?

A: The real issue is determining what the easement is for. If the easement is between you and your neighbor and is no longer needed, you can both agree to terminate the easement. You would draft a document to terminate the easement and would need to have that document recorded in the office in which land records are recorded in your county.

Since you indicated that your neighbor's pool will encroach on your easement, I have to assume that the pool will be on your neighbor's property and that the easement you are referring to is on your neighbor's property. That makes it seem as if the easement is for your benefit and not your neighbor's.

If the easement is required for your use of your property and their encroachment into the easement area is a problem for you, then you have to work with your neighbor to redesign his pool to avoid the easement area. The easement may be for your sewer or water lines or even electrical and phone connections. The easement could even be for you to drive to get to your property. You better be certain that their pool won't affect you in any way.

While you may not mind now that they build the pool and encroach on the easement area, if it narrows the area available to you and you need that area in the future, you might be out of luck.

If the easement is a third-party easement for the electric company, local municipality or an easement that was created with the subdivision for all of the lots in your area, you need to investigate further whether your neighbor's use of the easement area could cause them a problem as well.

Before you rush out to terminate the easement, research the easement and understand what it is for and then you can terminate it if you can or even modify the easement area to exclude the pool area.

If you've done your homework and work with a real estate attorney in your area, you shouldn't have problems when it comes to selling your home later on.

To get even more valuable advice from Ilyce, visit her Personal Finance and Real Estate Center.


Posted by Ronald Mastrodonato on August 24th, 2008 7:14 PMPost a Comment (0)

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Repair credit best for fixing home defects
August 21st, 2008 5:37 PM
Repair credit best for fixing home defects
REThink Real Estate

August 21, 2008

By Tara-Nicholle Nelson
Inman News

Q: I decided that this was a good time to buy, and found this really great house at a great price. It's an older home, and very charming, but there is about $10,000 worth of various electrical and termite repairs that the inspectors have found that need to be done. I know that's not that much compared to the $300,000 I'm paying for the place, but I'm going to be pretty house-poor after escrow closes. I'm afraid I'm going to lose my dream house over these issues. What should I do?

A: As always, the lawyer in me has to say, "It depends." Did the original contract have an as-is clause? If so, it may be unethical to demand that the seller pitch in to fix these defects, though he might offer to if the other alternative is for you to back out of the deal. Are the repairs required by your lender or your city/state to be completed by the seller? Is the seller an individual or a bank? A bank is highly unlikely to contribute to these sorts of repairs, unless required to do so by law. How badly do you want the place? All of these things impact how you should proceed.

Mindset Management

If you love the house, feel that you're getting a good value, and the proposed financing will work for you on a long-term basis, look at ways to resolve or work around the problems, rather than instantly fearing that you're going to lose the house around this. In life, generally, what we fear we often create. If you approach this problem from the perspective of losing the place, you will. If you approach it committed to working this out, you almost certainly will.

If you are attracted to the charm of older homes, understand that this level of repair (or more) is liable to be required on any older home you consider buying (and in many of the newer ones, which have often been less well-cared-for). In fact, I know home inspectors who feel that older homes are often a better bet, conditionwise: The quality of materials and craftsmanship when they were built was often superior to those of newer homes, and any major functional or structural issues will have usually emerged by now, so the chances of a major surprise occurring are much smaller.

Home inspection reports can be worded very strongly, in the interest of protecting the inspector from liability. Don't let the verbiage freak you out -- there are lots of answers and clarifications you need to get before you can determine whether the repairs needed are potential deal-breakers.

Need-to-Knows

In the world of home improvement and repairs, things are not always black and white. For example, opinions will vary on what specific repairs are necessary -- some electricians prefer to actually ground two-pronged outlets, while others prefer to install ground-fault circuit-interrupting outlets. I know that's gibberish, but these are basically two solutions to the same issue of ungrounded outlets -- the first solution costs thousands, while the other costs $50 per outlet.

Also, every item that the home inspector points out may not, strictly speaking, need to be done (or may not need to be done with any urgency). Inspectors' professional standards require them to call your attention to recommended upgrades and other items that, when you ask them, they would either never complete if they were buying the house themselves or they would complete over a number of years, rather than trying to get them all done up front. Pest reports, for instance, are actually inspections for all sorts of wood-destroying organisms and conditions, not just pests. So, if your pest report comes back indicating actual termite infestation, that is an item you need to ensure gets handled urgently. However, if it comes back indicating a fence with dry rot, that may be a much less urgent repair -- and may even be duplicative of a fence rebuild that you were wanting to do irrespective of the pest report.

As a homeowner-to-be, it's time for you to learn the art and science of obtaining multiple repair bids. If you have one bid for $10,000 and you go out and get two more, you're very likely to end up with three totally different amounts and even three totally different recommended courses of action. Whether you buy this particular house or not, take this lesson with you throughout your career as a homeowner: Always get multiple bids for repairs or home improvements. You may not always want to take the lowest bid, because professionalism and quality of work vary along with pricing, but that's another story. Until you have multiple bids, you don't truly know how much the repairs will cost.

Finally, your Realtor will help you obtain a home warranty policy before close of escrow; in many markets, the seller will even pay for this item. While home warranty plans don't cover everything that could ever go wrong with your home, they do dramatically limit your potential exposure for when things break. Ask your Realtor to help you review your home warranty policy coverage and exclusions right now. Generally speaking, if any of the items you're concerned about are, for example, systems or mechanisms that are currently working but may need repair or replacement soon, those items may be covered by your home warranty -- but only after escrow closes and only when they actually stop functioning.

Action Plan

If you are committed to trying to resolve these repair issues so that you can move forward with the purchase of your dream home, here's the plan of action I suggest:

1. Get multiple bids and opinions on the necessity, cost and urgency of the recommended repairs. Get contractor referrals from your Realtor and friends, and also ask them if they would recommend an alternative course of action.

2. Ask the seller for a closing-cost credit or repair-credit holdback. Most lenders won't let you get cash from a seller credit without the repairs being done before closing, so you have two options. You can either (a) ask the seller to pay for some of your closing costs, so you can reserve your closing-cost funds and use them to have repairs done after closing, or (b) you can ask the seller to give you a repair credit, and leave that money in escrow after closing until your licensed contractor submits an invoice to escrow. I prefer either of these to having the seller complete the repairs, as I think few sellers will have the work done the way that you, the new homeowner, would. Consult with your Realtor and mortgage broker about which of these options your lender will allow, and stay flexible -- if the seller agrees to pay for only half of the repairs, then you can evaluate whether that's enough to allow you to move forward.

3. Ask seller for repairs. If you can't get credits for whatever reason, like the seller already giving you the maximum credits your lender will allow, ask the seller to complete the repairs. Ask for an invoice from a licensed contractor, and ask if you can select any cosmetic or finish materials.

4. Ask seller for price reduction. If the seller can't do the repairs or offer you a credit, ask them to reduce the price for some or all of the costs you'll be incurring for repairs. A price reduction is not ideal, as it doesn't result in you having the cash to get the work done, and will often not reduce your down payment or monthly payment amounts enough to allow for the repairs, but it's certainly better than nothing!

Once you have completed this action plan and have the results of your negotiation with the seller, only then do you have the full information you need to make a decision about whether to move forward with this purchase. While it is true that sellers are more motivated now than in the last generation to help with repairs, if they have already given you a great price, they may or may not be able to afford to add credits on top of that. Look at the help the seller can (or cannot) offer in the holistic context of the price, property, etc., rather than as an isolated potential deal-breaker.

Tara-Nicholle Nelson is author of "The Savvy Woman's Homebuying Handbook," and "Trillion Dollar Women: Use Your Power to Make Buying and Remodeling Decisions." Ask her a real estate question online.


Posted by Ronald Mastrodonato on August 21st, 2008 5:37 PMPost a Comment (0)

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Is $30K salary enough to afford Miami?
August 19th, 2008 4:05 PM
Is $30K salary enough to afford Miami?
Wannabe buyer may be in luck with new housing legislation

August 19, 2008

By Ilyce Glink
Inman News

Q: I don't want to continue renting and really would love to be able to buy something, but I'd rather you tell me, based on a few facts, if I should buy or just forget about it.

I live in Miami, earn only $30,000 annually and don't have a lot of money for a down payment. But my credit score is over 800 and I'm self-employed. I know there are many programs for first-timers and the local government also has some programs to help first-timers and low-income people, but I don't know where to start.

A: Your question is quite timely. Congress recently passed a housing bill that could help some first-time buyers buy a home. Some of the recently passed legislation could help people like you. But first, you need to take a close look at your finances and make sure you can afford to buy a home.

In the last several years, people making $50,000 bought homes worth $500,000. Those home purchases never made sense and still don't make sense. You need to determine how much money you can afford to spend on housing and then figure out if there are homes available in your price range.

Historically, lenders often counseled buyers that they could not afford to buy a home if the price of the home exceeded about two and a half times their annual income. In your case, that would mean you would have to look for homes that would cost $75,000 or less. But with lower interest rates, a lender may allow you to buy a home that costs three to three and a half times your income, or up to around $100,000.

In addition, lenders usually counseled buyers that their housing expenses and other debts should never exceed 36 percent of their take-home pay. In your case, you shouldn't want to pay more than $10,800 per year for all of your housing expenses, property taxes, insurance and other debts.

After reviewing your financial information, if you decide to buy a house, you may find a little help with the housing bill President Bush signed last month, HR 3221.

HR 3221 allows first-time buyers (classified as individuals who have not owned a home in the last three years) to take up to a $7,500 tax credit in the year they close on their first home. A tax credit is a dollar-for-dollar reduction in the amount of taxes you'll pay to the IRS. But first-time buyers don't actually see that money unless they file their tax return in 2009 for their 2008 federal income taxes and they get a refund. Otherwise, the first-time buyer sees the credit as a reduction in the amount of federal income taxes he or she would have otherwise have paid to the government.

While you'll reduce your taxes in the first year, you'll have to pay back the $7,500 to Uncle Sam over 15 years. So what you're really getting is an interest-free loan with generous repayment terms.

In this real estate market, the other bit of good news is that FHA loans require only a 3 percent down payment. So while many lenders may require higher down payments, FHA loans are still available. They may cost more, but a person with little money to put down could still buy a home.

So if you purchase a house for $100,000, you would have to scrape together $3,000 for the down payment plus some extra for reserves.

But one option that is no longer available is using a third-party nonprofit to set up a seller-funded down payment. In other words, a buyer in your situation could have bought a home without putting any money down. The down payment would have come from the seller through the nonprofit housing company. But the housing bill has eliminated these seller-funded down payments, since so many seller-funded down-payment loans have gone belly up.

Interest rates are still historically low, at less than 7 percent for a 30-year fixed-rate mortgage. If you put down less than 20 percent, you'll have to get private mortgage insurance (PMI) or pay the FHA's 1.5 percent mortgage insurance fee each year.

Although there are extra costs when you don't have at least 20 percent to put down on your home, housing prices have fallen substantially in most metropolitan areas around the country, some areas more than others. There are great deals to be had these days (especially in places with a large inventory of unsold condos, like Miami), and even folks who earn $30,000 per year might be able to afford to buy a piece of property because of the depressed prices.

I encourage you to find a real estate agent you can trust and start to look at neighborhoods with good school districts, plenty of shopping and transportation networks that are close to your friends, family and house of worship (assuming you have one). You'll also want to find an excellent mortgage lender who can help you with your planning, and you need to make sure that you can live comfortably with the costs involved in owning a new home and as these costs increase over the years.

As the recent housing market shows, it can be easy to buy a home, but if the market turns, homes can be difficult to sell in some markets.

HR 3221 also provides some extra funds for cities and states to use to encourage housing. Contact your local housing authority to see if it is going to offer below-market loans or start other housing programs to aid local residents of modest means.

Good luck, and let me know how it goes.

To get even more valuable advice from Ilyce, visit her Personal Finance and Real Estate Center.


Posted by Ronald Mastrodonato on August 19th, 2008 4:05 PMPost a Comment (0)

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Tropical Storm Fay
August 18th, 2008 6:28 PM

"Tropical Storm Fay is strengthening again, taking advantage of the deep, warm waters between Cuba and Jamaica. Though Fay's top winds are rated at just 45 mph, the storm has an increasingly impressive appearance on visible satellite loops. The circulation is expanding and intensifying, the upper-level outflow is expanding to the north and southeast, and low-level spiral bands are beginning to develop. Assuming Fay can dodge the southeast tip of Cuba without weakening, which appears likely to me, this should be a Category 1 hurricane by Sunday evening."

Failed drywall tape common on new homes
Save $950 by fixing it yourself

August 13, 2008

By Bill and Kevin Burnett
Inman News

Q: Although my house was built only five years ago, some of the tape has pulled away from the wall. It looks like it is just peeling at the seams. I had a contractor come in with a price and he wanted $950 to fix the problem. He said the original Sheetrock contractor did not put enough mud beneath the tape. He seemed to think it was easy to fix, but the job requires a good deal of prep work. That's the reason for the high price.

The tape is failing in only three areas, but one of them is on the ceiling, which is 18 feet high. I thought this was very expensive and it looks very easy to fix but I do not know what to do. Is this something I can do, and if so, how do I do it?

A: The price quoted sounds real steep to us. Repair is an easy job. We think you can tackle it yourself and save the $950.

Both you and the contractor are right. The cause of the problem is the original tape job. But we think that the mud was just too dry, instead of there not being enough of it.

We don't understand what prep work the contractor is talking about. There shouldn't be anything other than putting down a drop cloth to catch the mud crumbs that will fall when the tape is pulled off the walls and ceiling. Could be he doesn't want to get on a ladder to repair the tape that is 18 feet from the ground.

Failed drywall tape on newer construction is common. Sheetrock joints are sealed with paper tape that is applied with joint compound, commonly called "mud." The first step in the application process is to spread a layer of mud over the joint. Tape is then imbedded into the wet mud using a drywall knife or a taping machine called a "banjo" or a "bazooka." The tape is then covered with the first coat of joint compound and allowed to dry. Two more coats of mud are applied over the tape to produce a smooth joint. Finally the whole wall is textured.

Problems arise when the initial layer of mud dries before the paper tape can be fully imbedded into it. This is common if taping is done on a hot summer day. Over time, the tape separates from the wall.

If you decide to take on the job, your most important consideration is safety. How are you going to get to the repair on the 18-foot ceiling? Unless you have a friend with a rolling scaffold tower or a scissor lift you'll be making trips up and down a ladder. Make sure that ladder is dead solid stable and never overreach.

Now, if you're ready to tackle this job, remove all of the furniture from your work area and cover the floor with a drop cloth. With a one-inch putty knife, pry the loose tape off the wall, making sure to get it all. Then clean the area to be repaired of loose material with a soft brush. Use fiberglass mesh tape to make the repairs. Because it's self-adhesive it's easy to apply. Where the ceiling and wall meet, just fold the tape in half and push it into the corner. Stick the tape on the joint and cover the tape with mud using a 2-inch putty knife. For the corner, imbed one side then the other.

Do not use premixed joint compound for this step. Instead use a "hot mud" product such as Durabond 45. Keep the first coat as smooth as possible and well below the level of the finished wall. Once the first coat is dry (about 45 minutes), apply a second coat, making sure to keep the mud below the level of the finished wall as well.

Use premixed joint compound to match the texture. You probably have a "skip-troweled" look -- small raised pieces of texture that are flat on top. To match it, mix some water in to the mud to make a solution the consistency of toothpaste. With the tips of an old paintbrush, dab the mud onto the patch, extending it 2 to 3 inches over the surrounding area. Allow it to dry a bit and gently knock down the bumps with a drywall knife. It may take a couple of coats to bring the wall level with the finished wall. Repeat the process as necessary to blend the patch in. Prime it, paint it and you're done -- and $950 to the good.

 


Posted by Ronald Mastrodonato on August 13th, 2008 12:55 PMPost a Comment (0)

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You're 'too scary for my buyers'
August 12th, 2008 9:56 PM
You're 'too scary for my buyers'
Why some agents don't refer best home inspectors

August 12, 2008

By Barry Stone
Inman News

Dear Barry,

As a real estate broker, I read your column regularly and with great interest. But some of your articles trouble me. They suggest that Realtors routinely avoid the most thorough home inspectors and that they even label good inspectors as "deal killers." This charge seems unfair and in poor taste. Good agents, whether they represent buyers or sellers, want an inspector to perform a thorough inspection. Would you be willing to rethink your position on this? --Terry

Dear Terry,

Let's both give some thought to this issue.

The articles you mention were never intended to offend, but to shed light on an entrenched ethics problem that infects not all but many in the real estate profession: namely, the conflict of interest when Realtors refer home inspectors to their clients. Some will flinch at the voicing of this matter, preferring to deny its existence. But there is an elephant in the room, and it cries to be recognized.

The trunk of the problem is this: Agents don't get paid until the sale is completed, and defect disclosure can make buyers change their minds about the sale. Since the best home inspectors disclose more defects, a large number of real estate agents regard the best home inspectors as "deal killers" -- not because those inspectors actually kill deals, but because their thoroughness engenders the fear that they might kill a deal. As a result, some agents do not refer the best inspectors to their clients. Meanwhile, unwary clients assume that they are getting top-notch home inspection referrals from their agents.

Fortunately, there is also a positive side to this portrait. While some agents are avoiding so-called "deal killers," there are other agents who truly represent the interests of their clients and who recognize the value of total and unabridged disclosure. These agents are the shining stars of the profession, the ones who recommend only the most thorough and qualified home inspectors to clients. Agents of this caliber deserve praise and recognition for the exemplary work that they do.

Thus, we have two dissimilar groups of agents -- the compromised and the committed -- separated by an ethical divide that tarnishes the public image of the real estate industry, while jeopardizing the financial interests of trusting home buyers.

A sophisticated response to these charges has developed among the compromised agents, and it goes like this: Because real estate commissions are paid by the sellers, agents must represent the interests of sellers only. Thus, an agent is justified in recommending a mediocre inspector. From a legalistic standpoint, that may be an arguable position. From an ethical perspective, it is inexcusable. As for liability, it is foolish and risky. After all, how does a substandard inspection benefit the sellers or their agents if faulty disclosure produces a lawsuit after the sale? Obviously, it does not.

The more common justification for avoiding thorough inspectors, however, is the ad homonym approach: Just label the best home inspectors as "nit-picky," "too scary for my buyers," or just plain "deal killers." Thus discredited, those inspectors are no longer "worthy" of referrals.

Home inspection may be the only profession where good work discourages referrals. If that were not so, only the best inspectors would be recommended by Realtors. Instead, many referrals go to inspectors who are inexperienced and less than thorough in their findings.

Articles that expose these facts are thought by some to be in poor taste. What is more distasteful, however, is misleading a trusting home buyer in the choice of a home inspector. If such practices were not so common, there would no need for articles such as this one. Hopefully, this will be addressed once and for all by leaders within the real estate profession.

To write to Barry Stone, please visit him on the Web at www.housedetective.com.


Posted by Ronald Mastrodonato on August 12th, 2008 9:56 PMPost a Comment (0)

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Homeowners feel title office should pay for mistake
August 11th, 2008 12:00 PM
Homeowners feel title office should pay for mistake
$200 fee pops up months after purchase

August 11, 2008

By Benny Kass
Inman News

DEAR BENNY: We just bought a house in a community association and the title company handled all the fees and the settlement charges. We have been in the house for three months and we just got a $200 bill for an initiation fee for our association. The property manager told me that the title company should have called and asked about fees. Although we paid three months of fees in the settlement charges for the association, the title company never inquired about an initiation fee. The property manager said if they had called for all the fees they would have been told about this fee. I called the title company and they admitted they screwed up. But they said I would have had to pay for it anyway. I feel they should pay. Am I right? --Vito

DEAR VITO: If you look carefully at all of the documents you signed at settlement, I suspect you'll find that you agreed to be responsible for any mistakes made by the lender as well as the title company.

The title company made a mistake, and for the small amount of money they should be gracious and pay the $200. But if they are unwilling to do so, I would pay the fee and cross that company off your list for any future business.

DEAR BENNY: My mother died and left a 55 percent share of her house to me and a 45 percent share to my brother. She named me executor of her estate. My brother and I want to keep the house and rent it out. What is the best way to handle the title, and the division of costs and proceeds from the rental of the house? --Thomas

DEAR THOMAS: You are from Texas and because I don't practice law there, I can provide you only general advice. You really should consult a local attorney for specific answers.

You are the executor (called personal representative in many states) of your mother's estate. Typically, the executor -- once appointed by the probate court -- becomes the legal title owner.

You should convey the property to you and your brother. You will be the grantor in your capacity as executor, and you and your brother will be the grantee. Since you will each own a different percentage interest in the house, you probably will want to take title as "tenants in common" -- 55 percent to you and 45 percent to your brother. That means that each of you should have separate wills so that on your deaths your portions of the house can be distributed as you each desire.

It should be noted that in a few states, two people can take an undivided interest as joint tenants.

Even though he is your brother, I recommend that you enter into a partnership agreement, spelling out such matters as who will handle the funds, what happens if one of you wants out of the deal (or dies), and whether there should be a time established in the future when you will want to sell the property.

You can also consider taking the title in a limited liability company. This should be discussed with your attorney and your financial advisors.

DEAR BENNY: Our 30-year-old home has quadrupled in value. My husband just passed away, but I don't intend to sell this year. How do I find out the current "investment-value basis," or whatever it is called, which I understand is higher on his date of death than when we purchased it? Who do I call? As a future single seller, I know I will have the $250,000 tax exemption on gain, but how will I know what basis to use? Do I simply pay for a private appraisal now, and keep it in my file? I don't think I want a "reappraisal," which would raise my yearly property tax. Would putting the home in my own name also bring higher property taxes? I need information about all this. Who can help me? --Joyce

DEAR JOYCE: The "investment value basis" is referred to as the "tax basis." You have raised a number of questions, many of which I cannot answer because I do not know all of the facts. For example, if you and your husband owned the property together (such as in tenants by the entirety -- where permitted by law -- or joint tenants), then you do not have to file probate regarding the house.

I also need to know if you are in a community property state, such as California. The "stepped-up basis" laws are different there. If you are not in a community property state, you have to go back to the original purchase price. For example, you and your husband bought the property for $40,000 many years ago and made $20,000 worth of improvements. The basis for tax purposes in this example is $60,000. You and your husband each had a basis of $30,000. On his death, the property is worth $200,000. Half of this value is added to your basis, so for tax purposes your basis is now $130,000 (your $30,000 plus $100,000).

As you will see from the answer to the next question, you now have two years from the date of death in which to sell the house and take the full up-to-$500,000 exclusion of gain. If you do not sell within the two years, you can claim only up to $250,000 of tax-free profits. Clearly, if your gain is less than $250,000 you need not sell quickly. But if your gain is much greater than that, you might want to consider selling so that you can pocket your gain instead of paying money to Uncle Sam. Currently the federal capital gains tax rate is 15 percent. There is no guarantee that it will be the same when a new administration takes over in Washington.

So, I would seriously consider whether it makes sense for you to sell before those two years are up.

You have to hire a private appraiser who will work with you and your tax accountant in preparing the tax return, which is needed as a result of your husband's death. Your legal and financial advisors should be consulted for specific information.

DEAR BENNY: My wife died in April of this year. I need to sell this big house and downsize. Since we have been here for 22-plus years, if the capital gains is over the single-person limit for exclusion, could I use her share? Would that be only for this tax year? --Martin

DEAR MARTIN: My condolences to you and your family. There is, however, some good news. Last December, a new law was enacted that will allow you to take the up-to-$500,000 exclusion of gain if you sell the house within two years from the date that your wife died.

Let's review the law. If you file a joint tax return, and you and your spouse have owned and lived in the house for two years out of the five years before it is sold, you can exclude up to $500,000 of the profit you make when you sell your house. If you a not married, or file a separate tax return, the exclusion is limited to $250,000.

Up until last December, you could get the full $500,000 exclusion only if you sold your house in the tax year in which your wife died. Thus, in your case, you would have had to sell it by December of this year.

Now, so long as you and your wife owned and lived in the house for more than two years, you have until December of 2010 in which to claim the full "up-to-$500,000" exclusion.

DEAR BENNY: My wife and I are considering buying a condominium unit here in Virginia. How do we check the financials of a condominium association? We want to be sure the association is on a sound financial footing. Any guidance you can provide would be appreciated. --George

DEAR GEORGE: In the Commonwealth of Virginia, potential condominium purchasers are entitled to receive -- and review -- what is known as the "resale package." Many states have such a legal requirement. This package should include the legal documents (declaration, bylaws, rules and regulations), the most recent budget, and a statement of the amount of reserves that the association has available for future repairs, maintenance or improvements.

You should carefully review this package, but watch your deadline. Generally you have only three days from the date you receive this package in which to cancel your sales contract -- although I strongly recommend that the contract require that you get at least seven days in which to opt out.

You should insist on reviewing the most recent financial audit prepared by an independent auditor -- usually a CPA. You should talk with the property manager to determine the number of delinquent owners in the complex. You are not entitled to learn their names, but with all the foreclosures that are occurring throughout the country, it is critical that you obtain this information.

I am assuming that you are buying a "resale" condominium and are not looking to buy from a developer. The developer must provide you with a document entitled "Public Offering Statement," which will contain the proposed budget. Unfortunately, my experience is that many such budgets are lowballed by developers so that the condominium fees will be low. Once control of the association is turned over to the owners, all too often the newly elected board of directors is faced with a political dilemma. They know they have to increase the condominium fees, but don't want to antagonize those members who voted them into office.

You are smart to be concerned about the financial condition of a condominium association in which you will be an owner. Unfortunately, too many people do not take the time to review the legal documents or the financials before they take title to their unit.

Benny L. Kass is a practicing attorney in Washington, D.C., and Maryland. No legal relationship is created by this column. Questions for this column can be submitted to benny@inman.com.

***


Posted by Ronald Mastrodonato on August 11th, 2008 12:00 PMPost a Comment (0)

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Got renter's insurance?
August 10th, 2008 10:12 PM
Got renter's insurance?
For foreclosure victims, coverage may prevent another financial tragedy

August 06, 2008

By Ilyce Glink
Inman News

The number of foreclosures has doubled since last year. That means a lot of former homeowners are now looking for a new place to hang their hats.

Many former owners are becoming renters again for the first time in a long time. And there are new lessons to learn: You're not quite the master of your own domain, because you merely lease the property instead of owning it. You have to live by the landlord's or building's rules and regulations. And, you have to remember to change your insurance coverage.

It's easy to remember that when you own a property, you need to budget for homeowners insurance. Your mortgage company requires you to buy a one-year insurance policy when you buy a home, or you will not be allowed to close.

But there is no one to remind a renter that renter's insurance is just as important -- although much less expensive.

Approximately 87 million Americans rent their home, and Harvard University's Joint Center for Housing Studies predicts another million former homeowners will join their ranks this year. And yet, just 40 percent of renters have renter's insurance, according to a new survey by Allstate.

Why don't renters buy insurance for the contents of their home? The Allstate survey found that 43 percent haven't made time to look into it; 33 percent believe that coverage is too expensive; 23 percent believe they don't have enough valuables to make renter's insurance worthwhile; and 10 percent believe landlords are responsible.

It's easy to be fooled into thinking your stuff doesn't have value when you're a renter. Typically, college students move up into the world with hand-me-down furniture of the well-worn variety. But in fact, television sets, computers and even hand-me down furniture have value, and a theft, fire, flood or other catastrophe could leave renters in the lurch if disaster strikes.

The typical renter has $30,000 worth of contents -- but that's not necessarily a number known by the renter, who typically undercounts his or her possessions. Like homeowners, renters need to take an objective look at the contents of their property and think about how much it would cost to replace them.

But few do. In fact, the Allstate survey found that just one-third of renters have done a home inventory checklist or tried to estimate the cost of replacing everything in their home.

What can you do to protect yourself? Before buying a renter's insurance policy, you should start by doing a home inventory. (This is a good exercise for homeowners as well.) Make a list of all of the possessions you own or are financially responsible for in your rental unit, including furnishings, appliances, artwork, electronic and recreational equipment, books and knickknacks.

Back up your inventory with digital photographs of each item and video to help determine where it is located. If you're so inclined, you can draw a floor plan of the unit and indicate where the major items are located, or use a floor plan provided by your landlord.

In this age of digital technology, you may want to create this as an online file, so that the inventory of possessions, electronic photos and digital video exist together, and can be used to bolster your case in the event of a loss.

Once you have a list of your possessions, you'll want to think about how much it would cost to replace them, if your home is completely destroyed. You might think all you need is a couch, table, chairs, television, computer and new cell phone. But what about plates, glasses and silverware? What will you cook with? Do you need a new toaster oven? And, what about clothes and jewelry?

Add it all up, and you could easily spend $20,000 to $50,000 replacing the contents of a one- or two-bedroom home.

Next, it's time to shop around for the best renter's insurance policy you can find. Your credit score will play a role here, so pull a copy of your credit history at AnnualCreditReport.com (and buy a copy of your credit score for about $7 at the same site). The higher your score, the better terms, condition and price you'll be offered for your renter's insurance policy.

Be sure to shop around and talk to a number of insurance companies about their rental insurance policies. Some may offer discounts if you buy your auto insurance and renter's insurance together. Stacking insurance policies can sometimes net you as much as a 15 percent savings.

But the pricing of a renter's insurance policy may surprise you. Renter's insurance typically costs about $15 per month, or about $180 per year for a $30,000 policy.

To get even more valuable advice from Ilyce, visit her Personal Finance and Real Estate Center.


Posted by Ronald Mastrodonato on August 10th, 2008 10:12 PMPost a Comment (0)

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Please don't accept my short-sale bid
August 9th, 2008 12:11 PM
Please don't accept my short-sale bid
How can buyer pull out of contract without losing $3,000?

August 08, 2008

By Ilyce Glink
Co-written by Samuel J. Tamkin
Inman News

Q: I have a question about bids and short sales. My wife and I have put a bid in on a house and it is a short sale. We offered $275,000 and we have seen paperwork showing that the owners purchased it for around $350,000.

The sellers have 90 days under the papers we signed to respond to our offer. We have not had any inspections or a survey/appraisal completed yet. The more we think about it, we are worried we jumped the gun on this offer.

We might want to get out of the deal before they officially accept our offer. They have $3,000 of our cash in escrow. We would like to know if we can pull out without losing our $3,000.

A: If, as you have indicated, the sellers have not yet accepted your bid to purchase their property, you should be able to withdraw your offer. But as with so many things, the devil is in the details.

Some contract forms bind the buyer to the offer for some time. During that period of time, the buyer can't cancel, rescind or withdraw the offer. But if your contract doesn't have that language, you will need to send a written notice to your sellers, the listing agent and the closing agent, if there is one handling your transaction, that you withdraw, cancel and rescind your offer to purchase the home.

To protect your $3,000 you might want to have a real estate attorney review your contract and send the notice to the sellers.

If your sellers have accepted your offer to purchase their home, you can't rescind your offer but in some parts of the country you still might have the ability to terminate the contract. If your contract has a contingency provision allowing you to get legal advice on the purchase, that contingency may also allow you to terminate the contract as a result of having discussed the issues of the purchase with your attorney.

Finally, if your contract has an inspection contingency clause, you might be entitled to terminate the contract if you find things wrong with the home and the seller refuses to fix those items to your satisfaction.

In each of these instances, you would be wise to use a real estate attorney to help you navigate the legal issues involved and make sure you can get your deposit back.

Q: Who legally owns the house on the day of closing in Pennsylvania?

A: When you purchase a home in Pennsylvania or in any other state, either the contract of purchase or local custom will dictate who is responsible for the expenses of the home on the day of closing.

When you attend the closing of the home (or, as it is referred to in some states, the settlement), you become the owner of the home at the time you receive the keys and the seller receives his or her money.

Most all homes accrue expenses on a day-by-day basis. In most cases, there are real estate taxes to be paid. In other cases, there are homeowner association dues that accrue daily with utilities and other expenses.

The customs vary from state to state and even from county to county. In some states, the seller is deemed to be the owner of a home on the day of the closing and that seller has to pay all costs associated with the ownership of that home that day. The opposite is true in other counties.

Some transactions go as far as to state that a buyer pays all costs relating to the ownership of the home if the closing occurs before noon, but the seller will pay all those expenses if the closing occurs in the afternoon.

Because this is such a local issue, and it varies by county, it's impossible to tell you what your financial responsibilities are for the day of closing. But your real estate agent or closing agent should be aware of these local customs and can guide you.

If your question relates to who gets to live in and possess the home on the day of the closing, the best thing is to have the seller out of the home when the buyer is ready to tender his money to the seller.

In some parts of the country, the custom is to allow the seller to remain in the home the day of the closing or even up to two weeks after the closing. However, if I were representing a buyer, I wouldn't want a buyer to close on the purchase of the home unless the seller were willing to pay for his stay in the home after the closing and would be willing to put up a substantial amount of money to assure the buyer that the seller will move out on a specific date and has the money available to pay for that post-closing possession of the home.

If the seller is unwilling to pay for the post-closing possession of the home or is unwilling to put up enough security to satisfy the buyer that the seller will move out on time and will deliver the home in the condition required under the contract, then the seller should move out on the day of the closing and before the buyer delivers his money to the seller.

While this view may be different than some of the customs and practices in some parts of the country, it protects the buyer from a seller who decides not to move out of the home. It also protects a buyer from a seller who damages the home after the sale or when the seller is moving out, and it encourages a seller to respect the terms of the contract and deliver the home to the buyer on time and in the condition required under the contract.

To get even more valuable advice from Ilyce, visit her Personal Finance and Real Estate Center.


Posted by Ronald Mastrodonato on August 9th, 2008 12:11 PMPost a Comment (0)

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New solutions for getting your home sold
August 8th, 2008 2:26 PM
New solutions for getting your home sold
REThink Real Estate

August 07, 2008

By Tara-Nicholle Nelson
Inman News

Q: I need to get my home sold -- now. It's in great condition, but it has been sitting on the market for months. I've reduced the price to where my Realtor thinks it should be. Do you have any out-of-the-box suggestions for moving my house?

A: Welcome to the wonderful world of real estate in 2008. You are not alone -- sellers across the country are struggling to figure out what they can proactively do to unload their homes. I'm assuming that you've surfed the Web and followed all the typical suggestions about sprucing up curb appeal, making sure your place smells nice, and so forth. If you haven't, do that first. I'll also assume that you know how long homes take to sell in your area -- if you don't, ask your Realtor for the average number of days a home like yours stays on the market. Without this information there's no way to know if your home is actually lagging on the market or if it is taking the normal amount of time in your area to sell.

The majority of my personal real estate clients are buyers; these days, I'm showing upwards of 50 houses a week. From my personal experience actually standing inside a huge number of homes with a huge number of buyers and working with them all the way through the home-buying process, I have seen which strategies work and which ones don't -- and I'm happy to share some strategies you might not have heard before. To position your home better for sale, though, you first should reposition your understanding of the nature of your task.

Mindset Management

When you embark upon the adventure of selling your home, you took on the temporary job as a marketer/salesperson. Your Realtor recommends and executes much of the marketing strategy, but there are a number of core decisions involved in getting your home sold, of which you are the sole arbiter. For example, pricing is the single most impactful determinant of whether or not your home sells, and how quickly. You are the ultimate pricing decision-maker.

As the chief marketer/sales decision-maker of your home, you must do as professional marketers do, and get inside the minds of those to whom you are marketing: home buyers. What are their wants, needs, priorities and concerns? What are the ways you can position your home to resolve or address these issues? Because your home is probably your single largest and most important asset, it is easy to get wrapped up in what you need to get out of the sale. In this market, though, when buyers are hesitant and tons of low-priced foreclosures and short sales are your competition, you must go above and beyond to address the needs of prospective buyers if you want to make your home stand out from the crowd and get sold.

Need-to-Knows

A primary concern among today's buyers is that they may not be able to get financing. In fact, I find that buyers often erroneously disqualify themselves; they think that obtaining a mortgage will be more difficult than it actually is. As a marketer, your job is to position your home to overcome buyers' perceived obstacles to buying your home, including financing concerns. I often see articles advising sellers to simply finance the homes for buyers to resolve this issue; however, most sellers who have an urgent need to sell are simply not able to do so because their mortgage loans must be paid off upon sale, or there is no equity in their home, or they need the cash from the sale to move into their next home. While seller financing may be unrealistic, there are other ways you can facilitate financing for buyers considering your home.

Another thing buyers today respond strongly to is a home with a strong emotional pull. These days, so much of the news about real estate and the average buyer's experience of the home-buying process is centered around finances, market considerations and negotiating that I find even the most hard-core, business-focused buyer who has pledged to never fall in love with a house will find all hesitation fall away and overcome her own objections to buying if she has a strong reason to love a particular home.

Finally, in order to get your home sold, you must successfully reach not only buyers, but also buyer's brokers. In the olden days (e.g., 2005), the California Association of Realtors used to say that more than 80 percent of qualified home buyers were represented by buyer's brokers and agents. As the market has grown more complex to navigate, financing has grown tougher to secure, and buyers have grown more apprehensive, I would hazard a guess that the percentage of buyers who are using Realtors has increased.

Action Plan

Here are my three suggestions of solutions to get your home sold without further ado, by addressing buyers' concerns about financing, helping them feel an emotional pull to your home, and making it more attractive to buyer's brokers:

1. Show buyers how to finance your home and guide them to down-payment assistance. Buyers with decent qualifications who just don't have a lot of money for a down payment can often finance a home with no money down -- even on today's mortgage crunched market -- by pairing a government loan, such as an FHA loan, with a down-payment assistance program. Some down-payment assistance programs are specific to first-time home buyers; others, like Nehemiah and AmeriDream will give any buyer 1-6 percent of the purchase price for his or her down payment so long as you, the seller, agree to match that gift in a grant to the organization (the grant comes out of your proceeds at escrow; you don't have to write them a check or anything.)

Market your home as a participating home in Nehemiah or AmeriDream, and make sure that your property fliers include the contact information of a mortgage broker who is familiar with these and other down-payment assistance programs. The fliers should also include some 95 percent and 100 percent financing scenarios, including interest rates, payments and any assumptions on which the scenarios were based. Your Realtor can help you ensure that the sales price you agree to accounts for the grant you will need to make to the down-payment assistance program, if any.

2. Help buyers fall in love with your house. I've seen buyer's respond very well to love letters and care packages left out by sellers. Write a letter, explaining how and why you fell in love with the house; tell stories of how your family lived well in it; and tell buyers about the neighborhood amenities and events that you walk to or participate in. If you have favorite neighborhood vendors, list their contact information and include notes about 80-year-old Zelda who runs the dry cleaner on the corner, and insider tips, like where you can find secret parking spaces for the farmers' market on Saturday. And buyers love to see a care package that includes marked-up menus from the neighborhood restaurants and take-outs, old utility bills to give them a ballpark estimate, and appliance manuals -- it makes them feel like their lives will be just that little bit easier when they move in.

If you're a tech type, considering doing a love letter in YouTube video form, too, and adding that link to your home's Web site and online marketing.

3. Make it easy and advantageous for buyer's brokers to show and sell your house. As a buyer's broker, for every 50 houses I show, I pass up hundreds more. Many of the homes on the market now are either bank-owned properties or are otherwise vacant. Vacant homes are very easy for me to show -- no appointments necessary, and my clients don't have to visualize the place around funky furniture or bite their tongue when verbally processing what they are seeing. If at all possible vacate your house, or ask for no more than a voicemail message notification of showing. If there are 10 homes similar to yours and yours requires an appointment to show, and especially if that appointment is tough to make, chances are that yours will just not get shown and, accordingly, will not get sold. Similarly, complicated instructions about what to do with your pets (e.g., leave the gray cat in, the black dog out, and the purple ferret in the fridge) make me less likely to show your home unless it is uniquely suited to my clients' needs.

If you find your home not being shown as much as you'd like, also consider offering a buyer's broker incentive. Properties that offer 4 percent commissions or significant bonuses for being sold by a certain date do attract more buyer-broker interest.

Tara-Nicholle Nelson is author of "The Savvy Woman's Homebuying Handbook," and "Trillion Dollar Women: Use Your Power to Make Buying and Remodeling Decisions." Ask her a real estate question online.


Posted by Ronald Mastrodonato on August 8th, 2008 2:26 PMPost a Comment (0)

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Trouble paying mortgage? Beware of phone scam
August 7th, 2008 1:14 PM
Trouble paying mortgage? Beware of phone scam
Don't fall for program that promises better interest rate, payment

August 07, 2008

By Ilyce Glink
Inman News

Q: My husband and I are retired and due to a number of problems we have gotten into an insurmountable amount of debt. We are just about maxed out on all our credit cards and are borrowing from one of them to pay another one. I don't know what is going to happen to us if we can't get some relief.

Recently we have been receiving several telephone calls each week saying that there is a program that the federal government is supporting that can help people in debt to recover by lowering mortgage interest rates and cutting their payments in half. The government gets a fee for doing this.

We need this or something like it desperately, but before we talk to one of their analysts I need to know how to check if these calls are legitimate. We do not want to give all our credit and personal information to someone who is running a scam.

If you could give us some kind of an answer as soon as you can, we would be so grateful.

A: I'm sorry for your financial troubles, but this sounds like a total scam. It sounds to me like you need some time with the folks at Consumer Credit Counseling Services of Greater Atlanta. They will be able to tell you if your debt is insurmountable or just enormous (but can be paid off). They are also certified housing counselors, so they can help you figure out what programs might be able to offer some relief.

You might also get help by finding a certified housing counselor through the Department of Housing and Urban Development Web site, or by calling 888-995-HOPE. Please call them and get the help you need.

One final thought: If you are so desperately in debt, it's possible that you'll never be able to pay your way out of it. In that case, bankruptcy may be a viable option. Please see a certified bankruptcy counselor (or the folks at CCCS may be able to guide you in that direction) for more details.

Q: have a desperate question. I have been married for 25 years and have three children. My name is not on the deed to our $600,000 home. If I divorce my husband, am I entitled to half of the assets even though the house isn't in my name?

We live in Massachusetts. Thank you so much -- I am sick over this and don't have money for a lawyer.

A: You may be entitled to half the value of the house, but it will depend on the circumstances.

First, I'm curious to know why your name isn't on the deed after all this time. But even if your name isn't on the deed, if the house is a marital asset (bought after you were married) and particularly if you have contributed sweat equity, if not money, to the purchase and maintenance of the property, then you may have a good case to make for equal ownership whether or not you are listed on the property.

If your husband bought the house before you were married, it might not be deemed to be a marital asset. Then, you'd have more trouble making a case for yourself as a co-owner.

More importantly, if your marriage is in this sort of jeopardy, then you had better find a way to scrape together a few hundred dollars so that you can spend an hour or two with a good divorce attorney who can walk you through some of the landmines you'll surely face if you do separate and help you figure out the answers to some of these questions.

Q: Four years ago, my stepmother signed a quitclaim deed to her and my father's home. The quitclaim was filed with courts. My father recently passed away. Since they were still married when he passed, does she still have claim to the home or would it fall to me and my two sisters?

A: Simply signing and recording a quitclaim deed doesn't tell the whole story.

To whom did she quitclaim the property? Did she quitclaim her entire interest in the home to your dad? If so, then his will would dictate what would happen to the property.

If the will dictates that she is entitled to all of his assets, then she'd inherit the property from him. If his will says that all of his assets go to you and your sisters, then she may not have any ownership interest in the property. Then you'd have to figure out how to either allow her to live in the property, perhaps renting it from you, or kick her out and sell it.

If your father's will states that his assets are to be divided between his known children and stepchildren, and your stepmother has kids, then you'll have to contend with some additional heirs.

The place to start is with the paperwork. Please find a copy of the document. Then, visit an estate attorney who can help you go through your father's will (assuming he has one) and the distribution of assets.


Posted by Ronald Mastrodonato on August 7th, 2008 1:14 PMPost a Comment (0)

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Window installation done right
August 6th, 2008 1:57 PM
Window installation done right
Do-it-yourself tips to keep leaks away

August 06, 2008

By Bill and Kevin Burnett
Inman News

Q: Whenever I hear some contractor saying residential buildings are built better today than in bygone days, it infuriates me. Take my 10-year-old house (please). I recently found out that all the windows are leaking because the builder did not install whatever is needed to prevent rain from seeping in, and now I can expect dry rot in the framing near the windows. Maybe you could explain how a proper window should be installed so it does not leak?

A: Rainwater is finding its way in behind the window trim, and you are probably right that the source of the problem is faulty installation.

On the whole though, we have to agree that today's residential buildings are potentially better built than those of bygone days. Quantum advances in the development of engineered building materials and a heightened sense of the effects of sun, wind and rain on structures couple to make for tighter, better-built homes.

Each year we head to the Pacific Coast Builder's show, where building industry suppliers display the latest building components. Over the years we've seen engineered lumber in the form of beams and floor joists. We've also seen energy-efficient windows, waterproofing products that breathe, and mold-resistant wallboard.

Engineered beams and joists are stronger and more stable than dimensional lumber. Housewrap allows the building to breathe, yet protect it from infiltration by water and wind. Modern windows are an integral part of today's energy-efficient homes. When these components come together with countless others, they produce a superior building compared to the homes of yesteryear.

We also empathize with you, because all too often the high-tech materials of today are compromised by shoddy workmanship.

Before the 1950s, homes were most often built one at a time and craftsmanship was more at a premium. With the demand for houses spiking around the end of World War II, the concept of the housing tract was in full swing. Mass production and speed was the word of the day, and quality craftsmanship began to take a backseat.

Go to any subdivision under construction today and you'll see a factory production line in full swing. Especially over the past several years, the push was to get the houses out of the ground and on the market. Sometimes, in the hurry, "best practices" slip through the cracks. Adding to the problem is that the skill of the modern production carpenter is less than his counterpart of years ago, so even when they are making a mistake, they don't know it.

Any time the building envelope is penetrated, there is a potential for water to get in. Every window and every door exposed to the weather is a potential leak. To guard against this happening, proper installation is paramount. The guiding principle should be to channel any water away from the bones of the building.

Most windows these days come equipped with nailing flanges. These fins protrude from the window frame and are nailed to the building after building paper or housewrap has been applied over the plywood or OSB sheeting. These materials should wrap around and cover the framing of the window opening. A piece of flashing paper should be placed on the window sill. Flashing paper is most often a 6-inch-wide piece of asphalt-impregnated building paper.

Lay a bead of caulk on the outside edge of the opening. Next, install the window into the opening by nailing or screwing through the nailing flange into the framing. Make sure the window is level, plumb and square. With a hammer stapler, staple flashing paper on the sides of the window butting the paper to the sides of the window frame. Extend the paper 6 inches above and below the window. Finally, staple a piece of flashing paper on the top of the opening, making sure to overlap the paper on the two sides. Overlapping the paper in this way encourages water to move toward the outside and not into the building.

Either stucco or siding is applied over the flashing paper followed by any window trim. If the window is trimmed we recommend that a piece of "Z" flashing be installed to direct water running down the siding away from the joint where the siding meets the top of the window.

For a detailed description of window installation go to links.sfgate.com/ZVL on the Web.


Posted by Ronald Mastrodonato on August 6th, 2008 1:57 PMPost a Comment (0)

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Car accident may wipe out home equity
August 5th, 2008 12:24 PM
Car accident may wipe out home equity
Family eyes quitclaim strategy in face of mounting debt

August 01, 2008

By Ilyce Glink
Co-written by Samuel J. Tamkin
Inman News

Q: If we quitclaim our home to my sister, can someone place a lien against the property if the creditors are chasing us?

Second, we have a private lender who has a second mortgage on the property. Does this affect us when we quitclaim the house?

We are being forced into this position as my husband was in a serious rear-end car accident in 2000, and the insurance company will not settle the case. We are set for trial in June 2009. The insurance company has paid for none of the hospital bills, doctor's bills or anything since the accident. My husband is permanently disabled because of this accident, and is in the hospital all the time. We have depleted our IRA and his retirement money in order to live these past nine years, as he needed 24-hour care. The only thing that we have left is the equity in our home, and we are selling it in order to survive. But if all the people who have not been paid over the years place liens against the property we will have nothing left of our equity.

So are we safe by quitclaiming the house to my sister?

A: You are in a tough situation and I am sorry for the troubles you are going through. Let's start with your question relating to quitclaiming your property to your sister. I'm afraid that option is probably not a good one for you. If someone has already placed a lien on your property, quitclaiming the property to someone else will not help you out. In addition due to your circumstances, if you quitclaim the property to your sister, that transfer may be considered a fraudulent conveyance. In many states, creditors are given the right to look back at the assets that a debtor had and may have transferred and not received any money for the transfer. They could try to undo the transfer and your sister would become part of the litigation.

If you're concerned about having a lien placed on your property because you are the defendant in the litigation, there may already be a lien placed on the home as a result of the litigation. If you are concerned about having a medical service provider, or other people who have given you money and taken loans from you place a lien on your home, they could still sue you and sue your sister to void the transfer.

You should see if there are any unexpected liens that affect your home. In many counties, you can now do a search online to determine whether a lien has been placed on your home. Check with your local county or local recorder of deeds Web sites so you can review any clouds to your property's title.

It's probably important that you take a look at what is going on with the title to your home. If you can't find the Web site, you can go in person to the office where deeds and other legal documents are recorded and ask to review your property's file. If there are no liens placed on your home and you can sell the home before any liens are placed on the home, you would sell the home and have the proceeds from the sale in your hands.

Let's assume there are no liens on your home. If you quitclaim your home to your sister and she doesn't pay you cash for the property, that transfer of wealth from you to her could be challenged at some later date by your creditors.

If you're in the process of selling the house, your best option is to stay the course and get your home sold. Once the home is sold, you can pay off the creditors who have liens on your home, including a first or second mortgage lender.

If in the course of the litigation, someone placed a lien on the home, you may have to pay off that lien also or deposit the funds to pay off that lien with the court handling the litigation. More importantly, once you have the money from the sale of the home, you can use those funds to pay for any of the bills that have come due for your husband's care.

Unfortunately, other than selling the property and getting the cash in hand from the proceeds from the sale, there isn't much a person can do in terms of asset protection once litigation has started or creditors have filed liens against a home.

On a second issue, if you feel that your insurance company or the other party's insurance company has failed to meet its obligations under your policy or under the policy that covered the other driver, you might want to seek assistance from the department that regulates insurance companies in the state in which you live. Some states are better at handling those complaints than others.

Also, some states have consumer-protection-type statutes that give you the right to challenge the insurance company's denial of your claim. While you have not indicated the specifics of your insurance claim, you certainly are spending lots of time and money related to the accident and the injuries relating to the accident.

Depending on your case and circumstances, you might find it worthwhile engaging the services of an attorney who might sue the insurance company to force them to pay up.

If you started that process and that is what is coming to trial next year and you are the plaintiff in the litigation, you might have to wait until the trial date to see where things end up. Your attorney should be able to advise you on whether the insurance company might be liable for its failure to settle. In some states, that failure to settle, if done in bad faith, can lead to an increased recovery to you, if you are the plaintiffs in the case.

To get even more valuable advice from Ilyce, visit her Personal Finance and Real Estate Center.


Posted by Ronald Mastrodonato on August 5th, 2008 12:24 PMPost a Comment (0)

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STAMP OF APPROVAL
August 3rd, 2008 5:56 PM
STAMP OF APPROVAL

Numerous Web sites display property listings, but it's unclear how often the listings are updated. "If you're looking at a database that is 12 hours old, 24 hours old or even longer, you might miss out on opportunities," says Realtor.com President Errol Samuelson. Of the 909 Multiple Listing Services that provide listings to Realtor.com, only 214 update information every 15 minutes. In an effort to better serve buyers, the site will start time-stamping listings when they are posted or updated beginning sometime this summer.

Source: Chicago Tribune (07/27/08) Sichelman, Lew
© Copyright 2008 INFORMATION, INC. Bethesda, MD (301) 215-4688

Posted by Ronald Mastrodonato on August 3rd, 2008 5:56 PMPost a Comment (0)

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FOR STANDOUT LISTINGS
August 2nd, 2008 4:15 PM
FOR STANDOUT LISTINGS

Real estate experts underscore the importance of digital photos and mobile phones in generating interest in property listings. Large photos - and plenty of them - are important for online listings, and Realtor.com has been designed to permit up to 25 photos per listing for an extra fee. Additionally, photo size has been increased by 140 percent. Move Inc. President Lorna Borenstein says, "Consumers tell us if they don't see multiple photos on a listing, they doubt the credibility of the Realtor." Experts note that the best photo should be shown first, contrary to the trend of displaying kitchen or bathroom pictures first. Borenstein points out that it also is important to post photos even of homes that are not in the best condition and to label them "fixer uppers." She adds that making sure listings can be viewed on smartphones is "critical for your business."

Source:
Inman News (07/24/08) Carter, Matt
© Copyright 2008 INFORMATION, INC. Bethesda, MD (301) 215-4688

Posted by Ronald Mastrodonato on August 2nd, 2008 4:15 PMPost a Comment (0)

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FOCUS ON YOUR HOME PAGE
August 1st, 2008 5:55 PM
FOCUS ON YOUR HOME PAGE

Real estate professionals need to take a close look at their Web site home pages to ensure they attract visitors' attention from the start. The home page should offer a teaser, something that prompts them to click further into the site. The site also should feature content for buyers, sellers, other agents and brokers, and local businesses so visitors can find useful information in one place. For instance, the site should have listings, sell-through statistics, rate calculators and community links. Additionally, agents should showcase their personalities and build credibility by sharing a little about themselves. Finally, they should freshen up their sites regularly by posting new content and changing headlines.

Source: RISMedia (07/21/08) Aleagha, Peyman
© Copyright 2008 INFORMATION, INC. Bethesda, MD (301) 215-4688

Posted by Ronald Mastrodonato on August 1st, 2008 5:55 PMPost a Comment (0)

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