Ron Mastrodonato's Blog: Real Estate and More!

How to fix out-of-square corners, saggy doors

November 14, 2008

By Paul Bianchina
Inman News

Over time, many homes develop little nonstructural problem areas that need to be dealt with, and it seems like the older the house, the more of those little problems that occur. Here's some advice on fixing a few of the more common door and trim situations you might typically encounter.

Out-of-square corners

If you've tried installing trim in a corner and can't get the miter joint to come out right, it's probably because the corner is out of square -- meaning that it's not an exact 90 degrees. To rectify the problem, you need to get an exact measurement on the angle of the corner, then adjust your miter joints to compensate.

The easiest way to do this is with an adjustable bevel gauge, which can be purchased inexpensively at any hardware store or home center. The bevel gauge has a wood or plastic handle with a metal blade that's held in place with a wing nut. To use the tool, simply loosen the wing nut and place the handle in the corner against one of the walls. Move the blade until it's flat against the other wall and tighten the wing nut, accurately duplicating the angle of the corner.

Using a protractor, measure the angle between the handle and the blade then divide that number by two, giving you the angle of the miter cut you need to make. For example, if the angle of your wall corner measures 94 degrees, your miter cuts would each be 47 degrees instead of the standard 45 degrees (94 divided by 2 = 47).

Doors that sag and won't latch

Over time, a door's own weight will have a tendency to make the door want to sag down away from the frame at the top hinge. This can result in a door that rubs against the frame at the top corner, or that doesn't latch properly.

To correct the sag, remove one or two of the screws that hold the upper hinge to the frame and replace them with 2- to 3-inch-long screws that will go all the way through the door frame and into the wall framing behind. Drill a pilot hole first to make it easier to install the screw. As the screw is tightened, you should see the entire door frame pull up tight against the wall framing, eliminating the sag.

Removing the sag is usually enough to correct any problems with the door latching, since it pulls the latch on the door back into alignment with the metal strike plate on the door frame. If the door still won't latch, you'll need to make an adjustment in the strike plate.

Coat the face of the latch where it protrudes from the door with lipstick or crayon, and slowly close the door. When you open it again, you'll see where the lipstick has transferred marks onto the strike plate, giving you a good indication of how much the plate needs to move in order to have the latch fully engage it again. Unscrew the strike plate, and use a sharp chisel to mortise the door frame enough to allow the strike plate to move. Drill out each of the old screw holes and insert a piece of hardwood dowel coated with glue into the holes -- this seals off the old holes so the screws won't wander back into them. Finally, place the strike plate in the adjusted position, drill two new screw holes, and reinstall the screws.

Camouflaging defects

Exposed ducts, surface-mounted pipes, and miscellaneous bumps and bulges are all items you might encounter that you'd like to put under cover. The easiest and cleanest solution in most instances is to simply box over them, and blend them into the surrounding area as well as possible.

Start by measuring the protrusion at the widest point, and then figure how best to construct a cover. For example, if you have a piece of pipe sticking out of the wall an inch or two in one corner, the best solution is to build a small box that's open on one or two sides as necessary -- 1/2-inch or 3/4-inch plywood works well for this -- and slip it over the pipe, securing it with nails, screws or even adhesive, depending on the situation.

If, on the other hand, you have a duct running along the ceiling for three quarters of the length of the room, you'll probably need to construct a framework from 2-by-2s or 2-by-4s to box in the entire duct. Oddly enough, it sometimes looks best to make the box larger than it needs to be -- in this example, the box will probably be less obtrusive if you make it the entire length of the room, rather than stopping it three quarters of the way across where the duct stops.

After the plywood or 2-by frame is constructed, think about how best to cover it. There is often a temptation to cover things with inexpensive paneling, or to just leave the plywood as "good enough," but if the surrounding wall is drywall that's been painted or wallpapered, the new cover will look much better if you do whatever you can to match it to what's around it.

Remodeling and repair questions? E-mail Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com.

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Landlord wise to avoid changing locks, evicting

October 23, 2008

By Robert Griswold
Inman News

Q: I own a rental home in a very quiet suburban neighborhood. About six months ago I rented the home to a young newlywed couple and everything was fine for the first few months. But the honeymoon is over, and lately I have been getting calls about some very serious and loud disagreements that have led to numerous complaints from neighbors. I spoke to my tenants the first time and then I sent them a written warning. Last weekend I understand the police were called. I got a hold of the wife and she tells me it is all her husband's fault and she wants me to change the locks and kick him out. I haven't spoken to him so I don't know his side of the story. What should I do?

A: You are not the first rental property owner that discovers that relationship counseling or mediation skills should be mandatory for landlords! Couples (or any combination of two or more individuals) who rent the premises together and have domestic disputes provide a tough challenge for rental property owners. As with disputes between neighbors or roommates, you need to avoid getting involved. You lack the authority to side with one party or the other, so stay neutral, encourage the couple to resolve their problems themselves, and continue treating all parties fairly and equally.

While apparently there are no allegations yet, unfortunately some disagreements between tenants involve domestic violence. In that case, you may receive a request from one occupant to change the locks or remove one of the co-tenants from the lease. While it can be tough to say "no," don't agree to any such changes, regardless of the strength of the tenant's argument, without first seeking legal advice and requiring a copy of a restraining order or other appropriate court order from the requesting tenant. I would advise you to insist on a verifiable letter or agreement and consent of the other party as well.

You need to be careful not to discriminate against the victim of domestic violence by evicting him or her, especially if the perpetrator is no longer in the rental unit and doesn't return to the property. While this may not be applicable to your situation, some of our readers may want to know that The Violence Against Women Act of 2005 prohibits public housing agencies and rental properties that accept Section 8 vouchers from denying an applicant because she has been a victim of domestic violence or stalking. Some states have passed legislation protecting women in similar situations, so check with local legal counsel if you run into one.

Q: My neighbors upstairs are really noisy. I called and complained to the landlord, and she said she would look into it, but the noise is still a problem. I have six months to go on my lease but want to move right away due to the noise. Can I break my lease and leave without owing any more rent?

A: This is a tough question because "noise" is very subjective. In most cases, the local laws or ordinances will require that the loss of your quiet enjoyment is substantial, as a certain level of noise will exist in any multitenant housing or especially in an urban environment. If the noise persists, you should attempt to "document" the noise in case you need to prove it. This can be done with witnesses, a tape recorder and an inexpensive decibel meter that measures the loudness of the sound. I suggest that you contact your local code enforcement or building department and see what guidelines they can offer.

Before you contact the landlord again, I would suggest you try to obtain third-party verification of the date, time, type of noise and the length of time it occurs. Local municipal officials may do this or you may need to contact law enforcement.

You have already complained verbally to your landlord, but you really should always make any and all complaints in writing to document exactly what your concern is and so there is no question that you notified the landlord and gave him an opportunity to investigate your complaint. Hopefully, the noise issue will subside, but if it doesn't the multiple written complaints and the third-party verification will be very helpful to convince your landlord that he should let you out of your remaining lease if the problem is not resolved. If you leave without the mutual agreement of the landlord, you run the risk of being liable for your rent for the balance of the lease. Your liability could be minimized, however, if the landlord successfully re-leases the premises to a qualified replacement tenant.

This column on issues confronting tenants and landlords is written by property manager Robert Griswold, author of "Property Management for Dummies" and co-author of "Real Estate Investing for Dummies."

E-mail your questions to Rental Q&A at rgriswold.inman@retodayradio.com.

Questions should be brief and cannot be answered individually.

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